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All these men travelled on foot, driving their asses before them. Thus I
had no less than six attendants, all of whom had been taught to regard me
with great respect, and to consider that their safe return hereafter, to
the countries on the Gambia, would depend on my preservation.

Dr. Laidley himself, and Messrs Ainsley, with a number of their domestics,
kindly determined to accompany me the two first days; and I believe they
secretly thought they should never see me afterwards.

We reached Jindey the same day, having crossed the Walli creek, a branch
of the Gambia, and rested at the house of a black woman, who had formerly
been the chere amie of a white trader named Hewett; and who, in
consequence thereof, was called, by way of distinction, Seniora. In the
evening we walked out to see an adjoining village, belonging to a Slatee
named Jemafoo Mamadoo, the richest of all the Gambia traders. We found
him at home; and he thought so highly of the honour done him by this
visit, that he presented us with a fine bullock, which was immediately
killed, and part of it dressed for our evening's repast. The Negroes do
not go to supper till late, and in order to amuse ourselves while our
beef was preparing, a Mandingo was desired to relate some diverting
stories; in listening to which, and smoking tobacco, we spent three
hours. These stories bear some resemblance to those in the Arabian Nights
Entertainments; but, in general, are of a more ludicrous cast. I shall
here abridge one of them for the reader's amusement. "Many years ago,
(said the relator,) the people of Doomasansa (a town on the Gambia) were
much annoyed by a lion, that came every night, and took away some of
their cattle. By continuing his depredations, the people were at length
so much enraged, that a party of them resolved to go and hunt the
monster. They accordingly proceeded in search of the common enemy, which
they found concealed in a thicket; and immediately firing at him, were
lucky enough to wound him in such a manner, that, in springing from the
thicket towards the people, he fell down among the grass, and was unable
to rise. The animal, however, manifested such appearance of vigour, that
nobody cared to approach him singly; and a consultation was held,
concerning the properest means of taking him alive; a circumstance, it
was said, which, while it furnished undeniable proof of their prowess,
would turn out to great advantage, it being resolved to convey him to the
coast, and sell him to the Europeans. While some persons proposed one
plan, and some another, an old man offered a scheme. This was, to strip
the roof of a house of its thatch, and to carry the bamboo frame, (the
pieces of which are well secured together by thongs,) and throw it over
the lion. If, in approaching him, he should attempt to spring upon them,
they had nothing to do but to let down the roof upon themselves, and fire
at the lion through the rafters.

"This proposition was approved and adopted. The thatch was taken from the
roof of a hut, and the lion hunters, supporting the fabric, marched
courageously to the field of battle; each person carrying a gun in one
hand, and bearing his share of the roof on the opposite shoulder. In this
manner they approached the enemy; but the beast had by this time
recovered his strength; and such was the fierceness of his countenance,
that the hunters, instead of proceeding any further, thought it prudent
to provide for their own safety, by covering themselves with the roof.
Unfortunately, the lion was too nimble for them; for, making a spring
while the roof was setting down, both the beast and his pursuers were
caught in the same cage, and the lion devoured them at his leisure, to
the great astonishment and mortification of the people of Doomasansa; at
which place it is dangerous even at this day to tell the story; for it is
become the subject of laughter and derision in the neighbouring
countries, and nothing will enrage an inhabitant of that town so much as
desiring him to catch a lion alive."

About one o'clock in the afternoon of the 3d of December, I took my leave
of Dr. Laidley and Messrs Ainsley, and rode slowly into the woods. I had
now before me a boundless forest, and a country, the inhabitants of which
were strangers to civilized life, and to most of whom a white man was the
object of curiosity or plunder. I reflected that I had parted from the
last European I might probably behold, and perhaps quitted for ever the
comforts of Christian society. Thoughts like these would necessarily cast
a gloom over the mind, and I rode musing along for about three miles,
when I was awakened from my reverie by a body of people, who came running
up and stopped the asses, giving me to understand that I must go with
them to Peckaba, to present myself to the King of Walli, or pay customs
to them. I endeavoured to make them comprehend that the object of my
journey not being traffic. I ought not to be subjected to a tax like the
Slatees, and other merchants who travel for gain; but I reasoned to no
purpose. They said it was usual for travellers of all descriptions to
make a present to the King of Walli, and without doing so I could not be
permitted to proceed. As they were more numerous than my attendants, and
withal very noisy, I thought it prudent to comply with their demand, and
having presented them with four bars of tobacco, for the king's use, I
was permitted to continue my journey, and at sunset reached a village
near Kootacunda, where we rested for the night.

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